French cosmetic ingredient manufacturer Silab has introduced Metallomia, a detoxifying active ingredient developed for menopausal skin. The company says the ingredient is designed to target a deficiency in ferritinophagy, a process that supports the controlled release of iron to meet cellular needs.
Iron handling and metallo-aging
Silab reports that a modeling study on menopausal skin showed a deficiency in ferritinophagy. According to the company, this deficiency reduces the availability of iron and contributes to premature skin aging. Silab describes this phenomenon as metallo-aging and says it is increased by UV radiation. UV exposure is said to promote the degradation of iron/ferritin complexes, leading to a large, uncontrolled release of iron and significant oxidative stress. This sequence links a menopause-related iron-handling deficit to oxidative stress, especially after UV exposure.
How Metallomia is positioned
Metallomia is intended to counter these effects by relaunching ferritinophagy in menopausal skin. According to Silab, the active ingredient facilitates the provision of iron and relaunches the main epidermal functions. The company also says that by reducing iron/ferritin complexes, Metallomia limits oxidative stress when skin is exposed to UV. In this way, the ingredient is presented as addressing both insufficient iron availability and iron excess under UV.
Reported volunteer results
Silab says that its targeted mechanism significantly reduces metallo-aging. In Caucasian volunteers, the company reports that skin was revitalized after 14 days, with the skin barrier reinforced and the complexion more unified and radiant. In Asian volunteers, pigment spots were significantly reduced after 28 days, according to Silab. The company adds that when Caucasian volunteers applied the ingredient before UV exposure, it prevented lipid peroxidation, and that the appearance of redness was limited within hours after exposure.
Marshmallow root sourcing and processing
For Metallomia’s development, Silab examined the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages. The company has set up a traced supply chain with French partners. This supply has been validated against criteria in the European Pharmacopoeia and through authentication by DNA barcoding. To make use of the roots’ mucilage content, Silab developed a specific enzyme engineering process to extract polyuronides.
Formulation and compliance
Metallomia is a patented active ingredient recommended for all care products intended for menopausal skin at a dose of 0.5% to 2%. It is available in aqueous solution and is described as easy to formulate. Silab says the ingredient complies with biodiversity regulations and has a natural origin content of 100% under ISO 16128. It also complies with international cosmetics regulations, including those in Europe, the United States, China and Japan, according to the company.